Exploring Welsh Historic Houses: A Visit from ISWE, Bangor University

We were delighted to welcome the Institute for the Study of Welsh Estates (ISWE) and Bangor University students to Plas Uchaf for a rich day of storytelling, shared history, and exploration of our local plastai, Plas Uchaf, Berain, and St Mary and St Nefydd Church.

In Spring, we had the most enjoyable day when we invited the Institute for the Study of Welsh Estates (ISWE) to Plas Uchaf. The visiting group included PhD and undergraduate students from Bangor University, as well as local historians and history enthusiasts. It was a day of shared curiosity as we explored the rich history of Llannefydd, our surrounding landscape, and the enduring legacy of Wales’s historic houses - our plastai.

As sixth-generation custodians of Plas Uchaf, a traditional Welsh hill farm tucked beneath Mynydd y Gaer, we’ve always felt a deep responsibility to care for this land and its stories. So it meant the world to us to see students and researchers engaging so thoughtfully - not just with the buildings, but with the lives and heritage surrounding them.

We began with a visit to our home, Plas Uchaf, where we shared the story of its late 16th-century architecture, including the Tudor archways, oak staircase, and the 'unit system' that reflected traditional Welsh vernacular life. Gwyn Foulkes Jones gave a talk on the history of Plas Uchaf, the Wynnes and the Williams families, including our very own John Williams and his rebellious deeds during the tithe wars (his adventures will make a very good future post!).

Next, we visited Berain, where we were given a talk by Dr Helen Williams-Ellis on the remarkable life of Catrin of Berain, or Mam Cymru. Known for her strategic marriages and prominent lineage (with links to Henry VII!), she remains one of the most fascinating women of 16th-century Wales. Born around 1534, she was known by several names, including Catherine Tudor and Catrin Tudor Ferch Tudur ap Robert, and is famously linked to many of Wales’s noble families through her four marriages.

Her story is steeped in legend and legacy - one tale tells how, shortly after the death of her first husband, she was proposed to by Maurice Wynn of Gwydir as she left the church! She declined, however, having already promised to marry Sir Richard Clough, who had proposed on her way in! Ever pragmatic, she told Maurice Wynne she would marry him "when there is a vacancy" - and, true to her word, she did. During her marriage to Clough, she lived in Antwerp for a short time. Her eventual marriage to Maurice Wynn of Gwydir further tied her to the powerful Wynne family, securing her place in the political and social heart of Welsh gentry life. Her fourth and final husband was Edward Thelwall of Plas y Ward. Catrin’s descendants include many prominent figures across Wales and beyond, and her home at Berain, not far from Plas Uchaf, remains a powerful symbol of her influence. Her legacy is tightly woven into this landscape and remains an important thread in the fabric of Welsh history (another future blog post!).

I was so pleased to be invited to Berain with the group. Although I’ve passed it many times, I had never had the opportunity to see the building properly. It’s a fine example of late 16th-century gentry architecture, with its distinctive stone construction, mullioned windows, and beautifully preserved wood panelling and carvings inside. You can learn more about its history and architecture through Coflein, the online database for the National Monuments Record of Wales.

At Berain, we were treated to homemade cake by our lovely host and had time to chat and ask questions. It was fascinating to learn about the diverse research topics currently being undertaken by the students, and we were especially touched to hear how far some of our guests had travelled - from Pwllheli to Chester - to take part in this special opportunity to share in Welsh heritage.

Present church dates from c.1550, although it certainly had earlier origins. It was restored in 1859 and again in 1908–1909 by Henry Harold Hughes. The church is designated by Cadw as a Grade I listed building

The day ended at St Mary and St Nefydd Church, where we were able to take in the beautiful late afternoon light filtering through the tall windows, casting a golden glow over the stone walls and pews. The church would have been a place of worship for many generations of local families, including those connected to Plas Uchaf. Inside, we paused to reflect at the memorial plaques dedicated to the Wynne family of Plas Uchaf - a poignant reminder of their lasting presence in the village. One particularly special detail is the plaque honouring Catrin of Berain, Mam Cymru herself, who is believed to be buried here. We admired the hand-painted Royal Coat of Arms, beautifully painted on Welsh slate - a very rare and striking example of craftsmanship that connects the church to a broader historical and political context.

Hanoverian coat of arms painted on Welsh slate

St Mary and St Nefydd is thought to date back to at least the 13th century, with elements of the current building reflecting medieval and later Victorian restoration work. It remains a peaceful and moving place, steeped in heritage, and we’re so grateful to the church members for opening their doors and sharing its stories with us.

The visit was beautifully captured in a short reel shared on ISWE’s Instagram, offering a glimpse into the special energy of the day.

We’d like to thank everyone who made this visit possible - from ISWE staff and researchers to our generous neighbours and the church. Seeing such deep interest in the village, its plastai, and its history reminded us just how important it is to keep sharing the story of this place.

To follow more of ISWE’s incredible work, find them here:

• Instagram: @ystadaucymru

• Facebook: Institute for the Study of Welsh Estates / Sefydliad Ymchwil Ystadau Cymru

• Website: https://www.bangor.ac.uk/iswe

If you’re interested in Welsh heritage, traditional architecture or planning a rural escape to North Wales, come explore our farm stay.

Here at Plas Uchaf, we offer a slower pace of life - rooted in landscape, family, and history.